Nomadic Innovations / Field Guide

RV storage is a systems problem. Protect water, electrical, mechanical, and exposed equipment in the right order—and leave a record you can trust.

Winter storage • Camper vans • Motorhomes • Travel trailers • Fifth wheels

A winterized water system is not the same as a vehicle that's ready for storage. Your plumbing could be protected while a 12-volt accessory quietly drains the house battery, water remains inside a heater, or an awning is rolled up with moisture trapped in its seams.

The better approach is to put the vehicle away system by system, in the order those systems need to be used. Test powered equipment before disconnecting batteries. Inspect for leaks before covering the roof. Winterize each plumbing branch before the first hard freeze. And leave yourself a record of how everything was shut down so spring startup doesn't become guesswork.

This guide covers camper vans, Class A, B and C motorhomes, truck campers, travel trailers and fifth wheels. Not every step applies to every vehicle, and your vehicle and component manufacturers' instructions always take priority, particularly for batteries, water heaters, generators and heating equipment.

Jump to a section of the guide

1. Start with your storage plan, not your antifreeze2. Do a working-condition inspection before you shut anything down3. Batteries: the hidden-load problem most checklists don't explain4. Engine, fuel and generator: storage is not the same as neglect5. Winterize plumbing as a map of components—not just a row of faucets6. Heating systems: protect the water side and the combustion side7. Air conditioners: clean, dry, inspect—don't improvise a refrigerant procedure8. Awnings: inspect them open, store them dry and fully secured9. Tires, leveling, brakes and the storage surface10. Roof, solar, seals and exterior hardware11. Interior moisture, refrigerator storage and rodent prevention12. Make a storage inspection schedule you can actually keep13. Coming out of storage: reverse the risks, not merely the checklist14. Ten storage mistakes worth avoiding15. The field checklist: prepare, protect, verifyFrequently asked questionsOne good storage habit protects everything else

1. Start with your storage plan, not your antifreeze

Three questions determine most of the work: Where will it be stored? How long? Will it have reliable power? A heated indoor bay for six weeks is a different assignment from an unpowered lot in Colorado for five months—or a driveway in Arizona through months of intense sun.

Don't use the calendar as your freeze sensor. Plumbing exposed below the floor or in an unheated compartment may be colder than the living space. A short cold snap can threaten small water-filled components. Plan ahead of forecast freezing conditions rather than relying on an arbitrary number of hours below 32°F.

Before you begin, collect the vehicle manual and separate documentation for the battery, inverter/charger, solar controller, water heater, refrigerator, generator, furnace, air conditioner and awning. Write down the exact model numbers. This is one of the most useful steps in the whole process: it keeps an instruction for one product from accidentally becoming an instruction for another.

What changes with storage duration?

The duration doesn't replace manufacturer instructions, but it changes how much follow-up you need. Use these as planning categories, not manufacturer service intervals.

The practical rule: make the plan from your actual location, installed systems and ability to inspect—not simply from the date on the calendar.

2. Do a working-condition inspection before you shut anything down

Perform this part on a dry day with the vehicle parked safely. You want to identify problems while you still have power, running water and enough time to fix them.

1. Walk the outside. Photograph roof penetrations, sealant seams, sidewall joints, awning brackets, windows, exterior service covers and underside plumbing. Look for cracks, loose fasteners, stains and damaged wiring. Don't casually smear new sealant over unidentified old material; use the correct compatible repair procedure.
2. Run a controlled equipment check. Operate the awning through a complete cycle, check its lighting, test approved HVAC modes, confirm the water pump's normal shutoff behavior, and check interior/exterior lights. Note faults before power isolation. If an appliance requires water, fuel or another operating condition, satisfy that requirement before testing.
3. Look for evidence, not just cleanliness. Check cabinet corners, under mattresses, around the air-conditioner ceiling assembly and below sinks for discoloration, soft surfaces, moisture or unusual smells.
4. Record the baseline. Note odometer, engine and generator hours, tire pressures measured cold, battery state of charge or resting voltage as appropriate, and any active equipment fault codes. Photograph instrument panels and important valve positions.
5. Remove what shouldn't stay. Take out food, liquids that can freeze, medication, aerosols and valuables; check under-bed compartments and garage storage as well as cabinets.

Pro move: make a one-page storage record. Include the date, location, equipment model numbers, starting battery readings, winterization method, valves left open/closed, systems intentionally energized, and the person who performed the work. Put a copy with the owner's manuals and a copy at home. In spring, this is much more useful than remembering that you 'did everything last fall.'

3. Batteries: the hidden-load problem most checklists don't explain

Many motorhomes and camper vans contain two electrically separate battery systems: a vehicle starter battery and a house battery bank. Travel trailers may have only a house bank, while sophisticated builds can have several distinct battery circuits. A camper van may also have solar charging, a DC-DC charger, an inverter, a monitoring display, an LTE router, a security tracker, or hardwired control modules. A battery-disconnect switch may not isolate every one of them.

First, identify each battery and the approved storage method

For example, Trojan Battery's storage guidance calls for lead-acid batteries to be fully charged and periodically checked. Battle Born's own LiFePO4 winterization procedure says to fully charge its batteries, disconnect solar and charging sources, and isolate loads. Those are product-specific examples, not permission to impose the same charge target on every battery brand.

Lithium batteries add another complication: charging and storage temperature are not the same rating. Some LiFePO4 models can remain in cold storage but must not be charged until their cells are sufficiently warm. Heated batteries and those with low-temperature charge protection behave differently. Check the actual battery and BMS instructions before leaving solar or shore charging active through freezing weather.

A five-minute calculation that can save an entire battery bank

A standby draw can look harmless on a display, but time multiplies it.

Battery capacity consumed (amp-hours) ≈ current draw (amps) × 24 × days

A continuous 0.05 A (50 mA) draw consumes approximately 36 Ah in 30 days (0.05 × 24 × 30). That is before other loads, battery self-discharge, inverter losses or temperature effects. A 0.2 A draw would consume 144 Ah over the same period. This is an illustrative energy budget, not a prediction of your battery's usable capacity. For a meaningful test, measure the actual draw from the battery with a suitable meter or correctly configured battery monitor; a device's advertised power rating is not necessarily its idle draw. Amp-hours from banks operating at different voltages are not directly interchangeable; compare watt-hours if you need to compare unlike battery systems.

Pro move: check the wiring topology, not just the switch label. Determine which circuits remain live after you use the main house disconnect. Depending on the build, these can include the solar controller, security system, DC-DC hardware, monitoring shunts and accessories connected directly to the battery. Victron's lithium battery guidance specifically warns that small residual currents can over-discharge batteries after a BMS shutdown. Treat BMS low-voltage cutoff as last-resort protection, not a storage plan.

Choose one of two deliberate power strategies

Option A: Fully isolated storage. Use the battery manufacturer's approved storage charge level; disable or isolate charging sources and loads in the prescribed order; verify that unintended draws are gone; and make a schedule to inspect the battery while stored. If the battery must be removed, follow safe disconnection, lifting and storage procedures for its chemistry and design. Some devices, including smoke/CO alarms or remote trackers, will no longer function without their power supply; plan suitable alternative protection.

Option B: Managed charging during storage. If shore power or solar remains connected, verify the complete charging system supports the specific chemistry, battery temperature, and unattended operating conditions. Check cable routing, protected connections, monitoring and access. 'Plugged in' does not automatically mean 'safe to leave.' Periodically confirm the charger is actually working and that the battery isn't being exposed to unsuitable temperatures.

Important solar detail: A solar array can continue energizing a charge controller even after the house battery is isolated. The shutdown and restart order depends on the controller model. For example, Victron's SmartSolar installation instructions require the battery to be connected before the PV input during commissioning. Do not disconnect a battery beneath a live solar input without confirming the proper sequence for your equipment. Have a qualified installer perform any unfamiliar electrical isolation.

Only disconnect the chassis battery using the vehicle maker's procedure; some vehicles require additional precautions to avoid faults, lost settings or issues with emergency systems.

4. Engine, fuel and generator: storage is not the same as neglect

For motorhomes and vans, begin with overdue maintenance rather than hoping storage will be kind to old fluids or unresolved faults. Check engine oil/service requirements, coolant protection, visible leaks, belts, filters and manufacturer-prescribed intervals. If the vehicle needs a pre-storage drive, do it before final shutdown—not just a brief idle in the driveway. Follow the chassis maker's instructions for long-term non-use.

Gasoline, diesel and generator fuel do not follow one rule

Don't automatically pour the same fuel stabilizer into every tank. Requirements vary with fuel formulation, generator design, seasonal fuel, storage time and the specific engine manufacturer.

• Gasoline vehicle or generator: Use fresh fuel and a product/manufacturer-approved storage procedure. A stabilizer does not restore fuel that is already degraded. Honda's fuel recommendations distinguish shorter storage periods from storage lasting more than a year, when draining may be required for its covered models.
• Diesel vehicle: Follow the chassis/engine maker's advice for fuel quality, extended storage, seasonal temperature suitability and any diesel additive. Fuel in a winter climate has different low-temperature requirements than fuel used in a hot climate. Don't invent a universal additive interval.
• Diesel exhaust fluid (DEF), if equipped: DEF is a separate emissions fluid, not a fuel additive. The American Petroleum Institute's DEF storage guidance explains that DEF can freeze around 11°F (-11°C), expands when frozen, and must not receive improvised freeze-point additives. Review tank-fill, age, heat exposure and long-storage instructions for your chassis; do not apply a universal drain or top-off rule.
• Built-in RV generator: Identify its exact make, fuel type and operating schedule. For example, Cummins provides model-specific operator guidance recommending approximately two hours of monthly exercise at about half rated load for the models covered. This is not a universal interval for every generator. Follow your own model manual, required load, ventilation needs and storage-facility rules.

If you cannot run a generator periodically, arrange a manufacturer-approved extended-storage procedure for that specific generator and fuel system. Depending on the model it may involve appropriate fuel preparation and other steps. Do not substitute an occasional two-minute no-load startup for the prescribed maintenance.

Safety boundary: Never run the engine, generator, propane appliance or combustion heater in an enclosed storage bay. Exhaust contains carbon monoxide; generator testing also requires appropriate electrical loading, ventilation and supervision. Disable or evaluate any automatic generator-start feature so it cannot start unexpectedly while stored.

5. Winterize plumbing as a map of components—not just a row of faucets

The most common simplification in RV winterization advice is to treat the plumbing as a single set of water lines. In reality, it is a network of tanks, valves, branches, appliances, filters, strainers and drains. Water can remain in a small component even when the faucets appear empty.

Step A — Create a water-system inventory

Locate and mark every component in your own build:

Pro move: Photograph the backs of service panels and valve handles, then label the photos 'normal use' and 'winter storage.' When you reopen the system, you will know exactly what needs to change.

Step B — Shut down, depressurize and drain appropriately

1. Turn off the water heater and allow it to cool. Disconnect incoming city water and turn off the water pump.
2. Open fixtures to relieve pressure, using the steps in your vehicle and water-heater manuals.
3. Drain fresh, gray and black tanks at appropriate facilities; follow safe waste-disposal practices and clean the black-tank system where equipped.
4. Open the manufacturer-identified low-point drains and follow the specified process for pump, strainer and exterior water connections.
5. Remove or bypass water-filter cartridges as their manufacturers require; some filter housings retain water even after the main line has drained.
6. Winterize the water heater using its own procedure, including approved bypass and drain operations, before introducing antifreeze anywhere it must not enter.
7. Drain and dry removable fresh-water hoses and waste hoses as appropriate; store potable-water equipment away from sewer equipment to reduce cross-contamination.

Step C — Select an approved method for the remaining lines

Compressed air: Some RV makers allow a regulated compressed-air method. For example, Keystone RV's compressed-air instructions specify a maximum of 30 PSI for the applicable procedure. That is not a universal limit or authorization to apply air to every heater, pump or appliance. Use suitable clean, oil-free air and compatible connections only where your specific equipment allows it.

RV potable-system antifreeze: Many RVs use a manufacturer-approved, non-toxic RV/marine antifreeze procedure after draining and isolating components that must not receive it. Follow the instructions for concentration, pump intake, fixtures, traps and flushing. Never use automotive engine antifreeze in potable plumbing.

The exception that changes everything: Truma says its AquaGo and Combi products have specific drain-based winterization procedures, and advises against high-pressure air or introducing antifreeze into those units except as permitted with an approved bypass setup. A generic RV procedure could conflict with the heater's instructions.

Step D — Verify each branch, then document the result

Don't stop after water or antifreeze appears at the first sink. Check every hot and cold line, toilet supply valve, outdoor fixture, optional appliance and manufacturer-identified low point using the approved method. Confirm the water heater is protected independently. Address P-traps and toilet seals as directed by the RV manufacturer; some air-blowout approaches still require RV antifreeze in drains and traps.

Finally, note which drain plugs have been removed, where filters are stored, whether the heater bypass is active, and which valves must be reset before the next use. Never energize an emptied water heater until the water system has been restored and the heater's startup requirements are met.

If the equipment layout is unfamiliar, stop and have a qualified RV technician handle winterization. A service invoice should identify the systems serviced, not simply say 'winterized.'

6. Heating systems: protect the water side and the combustion side

An RV may have a propane furnace, diesel air heater, hydronic heater, combination space/water heater or electric heat pump. Their winter storage procedures are not interchangeable.

For combination air-and-water heaters, the water vessel may need draining even when the cabin heating circuit itself seems protected. Truma's Combi winterization guidance is a useful example: it describes a defined water-drain procedure and recommends leaving the drain valve open during winter storage. Check the model installed in your vehicle rather than copying this sequence to another heater.

For diesel or propane air heaters, inspect intake and exhaust areas for damage, obstruction and corrosion. Follow the maker's maintenance and shutdown recommendations, including any approved periodic run schedule. Do not block combustion exhaust outlets as a DIY pest-control measure, and do not operate heaters unattended simply to avoid doing proper plumbing winterization unless the entire vehicle and heating system are specifically approved for that use.

Before storage, close propane supply valves in accordance with the RV/appliance manuals and storage-facility requirements. Check for damage or leaks using approved methods, not an open flame. If something smells wrong, do not turn on electrical devices or attempt repairs—leave the area and obtain professional assistance.

Check your safety-device plan, too. If the house power will be isolated, identify which smoke, carbon-monoxide and propane detectors or monitoring devices will lose power. Do not represent a powerless detector as an active safeguard. Follow the equipment and facility requirements for the stored, unoccupied vehicle, and verify these devices again during recommissioning.

7. Air conditioners: clean, dry, inspect—don't improvise a refrigerant procedure

Roof-mounted and split air conditioners deserve a final inspection even if you will not use cooling for months. Their storage exposure is primarily environmental: debris, rainwater, drain routing, seals, condensation and possible rodent access.

1. Run a normal operational check in conditions allowed by the AC manufacturer's operating-temperature instructions, while the electrical system is still in service. Record unusual sounds, water behavior and any faults.
2. Switch off and isolate the AC using the correct controls and service procedures before touching accessible filters or panels.
3. Clean reusable return-air filters as instructed, dry them fully, and reinstall. Inspect accessible grilles and ceiling assemblies for water staining or contamination.
4. Check condensate drainage and surrounding surfaces. Evidence of a blocked drain, standing water or a stained ceiling needs investigation now, not after several months. The EPA's moisture guidance recommends keeping AC drip pans and drain lines unobstructed.
5. Inspect the roof penetration, surrounding sealant and exterior shroud from a safe, approved access position. Do not loosen mounting fasteners or alter gasket compression without the manufacturer's instructions.
6. For split systems, visually examine accessible insulated lines, routing and exterior components without disturbing fittings. Refrigerant circuits are not routine winter-storage service items.

For Nomadic Cooling owners, use the correct X2, X3 or S1 manual in the Nomadic download center. Procedures differ between rooftop and split systems and between product generations. If you suspect a refrigerant leak, damaged connection or compressor fault, stop and contact a qualified service professional; do not open, vent, charge or alter the refrigerant circuit as a storage precaution.

Should you cover the rooftop AC? Only if the unit manufacturer explicitly approves a specific cover and storage configuration. An improvised wrap can trap moisture, obscure inspection points or block necessary openings. Never operate covered equipment.

Related reading: How to Choose an RV or Van Air Conditioner That Fits Your Build.

8. Awnings: inspect them open, store them dry and fully secured

The final awning check belongs before electrical isolation and preferably during suitable dry weather. Whether your vehicle carries a legged or legless electric awning, use the same disciplined sequence:

1. Extend only when conditions are safe, with adequate clearance and no significant wind.
2. Inspect the full fabric surface, seams, roller, leading edge, arms, end caps and mounting points. Look for tears, uneven tension, shifting brackets or signs of water entry at the mounting surface.
3. Clean the canopy using the awning manufacturer's approved method; rinse away residue and allow it to dry completely, including folds and sewn or bonded edges.
4. Operate one full retract/extend cycle to check alignment and stop behavior, and test integrated lights where equipped.
5. Retract fully and confirm the cassette, front bar and any leg/locking arrangement is secure. Turn off its control circuit according to the installation's power plan.

Pro move: The portion of fabric you can touch is not necessarily the last area to dry. Moisture can remain near the roller, seam transitions or fabric folds. If an awning had to be retracted wet, reopen and dry it at the earliest safe opportunity before extended storage.

For A1 and A2 owners, the Nomadic Awnings maintenance checklist provides model-relevant inspection guidance. A1 owners should include support-leg components; A2 owners should inspect the legless arm assembly and both lighting areas where equipped. Follow the A1 product/manual resources or A2 resources for model-specific operating instructions.

If you use a Helix Awning Controller, remember that app control is not a substitute for physical security or a storage power-isolation plan. Complete all movement checks before switching off its supply. Do not assume a powered controller can monitor or operate an awning after that power has been removed.

9. Tires, leveling, brakes and the storage surface

Long-term parking adds another set of risks: stationary load, UV exposure, uneven supports, tire-pressure loss and corrosion around the chassis.

• Use the correct cold inflation pressure for the actual tire, load and vehicle manufacturer's guidance. Do not automatically inflate to the sidewall maximum. Michelin's RV tire guidance explains how axle-end weights and tire-specific charts affect pressures, and warns against exceeding the wheel's pressure limit.
• Park on a firm, drained surface that does not allow the vehicle to settle. Use appropriate wheel chocks and the leveling/stabilization method permitted by your vehicle manufacturer.
• Support the whole tire footprint. Michelin's RV reference materials on leveling blocks says blocks should be wider than the tread and longer than the contact patch. On dual-wheel assemblies, both tires need even support. A small block placed under part of a tire is not equivalent.
• Inspect before storage. Check for uneven wear, sidewall damage, cuts and tire age. Shield tires from UV where appropriate without trapping water against wheels or interfering with inspections.
• Manage brakes deliberately. Follow the chassis maker's storage procedure for the parking brake, chocks, transmission and any hydraulic leveling system. Prolonged wet storage can affect brake components; don't assume one universal parking-brake instruction is safe for every vehicle or grade.

When returning to service, check tire pressure again cold and inspect for visible damage before driving. An RV tire can have adequate tread and still need professional evaluation because of age, damage or its service history.

10. Roof, solar, seals and exterior hardware

The roof can look fine from ground level while small seal failures are developing around antenna mounts, solar brackets, fans, skylights and air-conditioning openings. Use safe access or a service professional—especially on roofs not rated for walking.

Inspect the roof and body seams in daylight. Look for lifting sealant, cracks, punctures, fasteners backing out, trapped debris and water tracks. Check solar-panel attachment and visible wiring without pulling connectors or disturbing live PV circuits. Remove leaves and debris from appropriate drains and channels. Verify exterior doors, compartment gaskets and service covers seal correctly.

If you use a vehicle cover, select one approved for the vehicle's shape and exterior equipment; secure it against abrasion, maintain required ventilation, and ensure inspection access is possible. A cover that rubs through a painted corner or traps moisture is not providing useful protection.

Don't forget slide-outs, steps and leveling equipment

Inspect the slide-out seals, wiper surfaces and topper fabric, if equipped, and remove debris from the tracks or surrounding openings using the manufacturer's approved method. Retract slides and power steps to their designated storage positions; verify seals have seated without trapped twigs or fabric. Use only approved lubricants and service procedures. For leveling jacks or stabilizers, follow the vehicle maker's storage position and load-support instructions rather than assuming every RV should be left on its jacks.

For trailer owners, inspect the coupler, safety chains, breakaway-cable routing, stabilizers and exposed electrical connectors. For motorhomes and vans, inspect engine-bay and underside areas that will be inaccessible after parking close to a wall or another vehicle.

11. Interior moisture, refrigerator storage and rodent prevention

Moisture control beats deodorizing. Clean and dry the refrigerator, freezer, sink areas, shower, soft furnishings and cabinets. Where approved by the refrigerator manufacturer, secure its doors slightly open to prevent trapped odors and moisture. Remove damp towels and stored bedding that cannot remain dry.

A small digital humidity logger can reveal whether the interior is remaining reasonably dry between visits. If you plan to operate an unattended dehumidifier, confirm that its power, condensate disposal and automatic restart behavior are suitable for that storage arrangement. The EPA recommends indoor relative humidity below 60%, ideally 30–50%, as a general mold-prevention guideline. Treat this as a reference for moisture management, not as a guaranteed RV-specific threshold. Fix leaks rather than relying on a tub of desiccant to conceal them.

Look for potential rodent entry around plumbing chases, wiring penetrations, underbody openings and service compartments. Seal only openings that are not required for ventilation, combustion air, drainage or equipment operation. Avoid leaving attractants. Check the storage facility's pest-control procedures.

If you discover droppings or nests in spring, do not immediately vacuum them up or start the engine. The CDC's rodent-cleanup guidance calls for ventilation, appropriate protection and disinfecting contamination before cleanup; it also recommends checking air intakes and filters before restarting a stored vehicle. Electrical damage warrants professional inspection.

12. Make a storage inspection schedule you can actually keep

A vehicle in storage is not maintenance-free. The right frequency depends on weather, exposure, power strategy and facility access; the following is a practical planning schedule, not a manufacturer-prescribed interval.

Do not start a gasoline or diesel engine for a few minutes simply because the vehicle has been sitting. Follow its actual long-term-storage procedure and, if operation is required, use the appropriate ventilation and operating conditions.

If your facility does not allow access during storage, plan for that restriction before choosing a battery-maintenance or generator-exercise strategy that depends on monthly visits.

13. Coming out of storage: reverse the risks, not merely the checklist

Spring preparation should happen before passengers, water pressure or a highway trip add demands to a system that has been inactive for months.

1. Inspect first, power second. Remove and inspect covers. Check for pests, standing water, obvious wiring damage and blocked engine or HVAC intakes. Address contamination safely before startup.
2. Check chassis safety items. Inspect tires and pressures cold, brakes, steering, fluid levels, wipers, lights, underbody, hitch and trailer breakaway system as applicable. Repair faults before traveling.
3. Restore batteries and charging correctly. Confirm battery condition and temperature; reconnect using battery, chassis and controller manufacturer procedures. Restore PV/shore power in the required order. Verify expected readings and monitor for faults.
4. Restore the plumbing layout. Reinstall drain plugs and filter cartridges or replacements, reset heater bypass/drain valves, and close low-point drains as required. Flush RV antifreeze from approved systems and sanitize the potable-water system according to the vehicle manufacturer before drinking the water.
5. Leak-test before energizing water heaters. Pressurize the system carefully, inspect every previously winterized branch, and make sure the heater is filled and appropriately commissioned before switching on its heat source.
6. Test appliances methodically. Check furnace/heater, refrigerator, air conditioner and generator within their operating requirements. Inspect for abnormal noise, water behavior, fuel/exhaust issues or fault codes. Verify awning movement on a calm day.
7. Do a short, local shakedown. Before a remote trip, use the vehicle near home or a service facility and repeat the leak, charging, tire and appliance checks.

Pro move: use your storage record as the return-to-service sheet. Check off every item that was disconnected, drained, bypassed, switched off or intentionally left open. This catches errors that a general spring-cleaning checklist will miss.

14. Ten storage mistakes worth avoiding

15. The field checklist: prepare, protect, verify

Use this as the final pass after following the vehicle- and equipment-specific procedures. It is deliberately not a substitute for a plumbing or electrical service manual.

Before final power shutdown

• ☐ Record the vehicle, battery and appliance models; save relevant manuals.
• ☐ Photograph roof, seals, awning mounts, wiring and existing damage.
• ☐ Test the water pump, HVAC, heater and awning under proper conditions.
• ☐ Inspect exterior seams, roof penetrations and underbody connections.
• ☐ Complete needed engine/generator maintenance and fuel preparations; check DEF requirements on applicable diesel vehicles.
• ☐ Empty and protect all water-system components using approved procedures.
• ☐ Clean and completely dry awning fabric; retract and secure it.
• ☐ Clean AC filters and check condensate drainage and exterior covers.

On the day you park

• ☐ Set correct tire pressures; confirm suitable full-footprint supports and chocks.
• ☐ Inspect and secure propane and fuel systems as required.
• ☐ Remove food, liquids, valuables and damp fabrics; dry the refrigerator.
• ☐ Verify no water leaks or standing water remain.
• ☐ Apply the battery manufacturer's storage charge and connection plan; verify the effect on alarms and other safety devices.
• ☐ Check which circuits remain powered and note their purpose.
• ☐ Set locks, covers and ventilation without blocking required openings.
• ☐ Photograph valve positions and record final readings, date, storage location, and inspection contact.

While stored and before departure

• ☐ Perform planned inspections after weather and at agreed intervals.
• ☐ Check battery condition, moisture, leaks, pests and tire support.
• ☐ Recommission plumbing; sanitize potable water and leak-test.
• ☐ Restore electrical connections in the proper order and check charging.
• ☐ Inspect chassis, tires, brakes and hitch; test appliances and awning.
• ☐ Take a local shakedown trip before remote travel.

Frequently asked questions

When should I winterize my RV?

Before the vehicle or any water-containing component is exposed to damaging freezing temperatures. Weather forecast, heated/unheated compartments and manufacturer guidance matter more than the calendar or a universal '24 hours below freezing' rule.

Should I disconnect my RV battery for winter?

It depends on chemistry, storage temperature, whether any monitoring or safety systems must remain powered, and whether reliable manufacturer-compatible charging is available. Whichever method you choose, document hidden loads and the charging/isolation procedure.

Can I leave my RV plugged in all winter?

Only when the battery/charger combination, shore-power installation, storage facility and temperature conditions support unattended charging. Check the system periodically; a plug alone is not a maintenance plan.

Do camper vans need winterization if they're stored in warm states?

They may not need freeze protection when freezing conditions genuinely cannot occur, but they still need battery, fuel, tire, moisture, roof, awning, pest and HVAC storage attention. Heat and UV can be major concerns in dry climates.

Should I cover my RV rooftop air conditioner for winter?

Follow the exact AC manufacturer's instructions. Don't improvise a sealed or tightly wrapped cover that may retain moisture or obstruct openings, and never operate a covered unit.

How do I know winterization is complete?

Use a component-by-component record: every tank, valve, fixture, filter housing, external branch and water heater has been handled according to its specific procedure. A professional service report should identify the work performed and any exceptions.

One good storage habit protects everything else

The best RV storage routine isn't the longest checklist. It's the one that matches the vehicle you actually own, keeps you from making changes in the wrong order, and leaves a record you can trust months later.

At Nomadic Innovations, we build equipment for real van and RV electrical, cooling and awning installations. If your vehicle carries Nomadic equipment, check the current manuals and resources and reach out to Nomadic Support when your installed configuration needs clarification. For chassis, fuel, propane, plumbing and non-Nomadic appliances, use the appropriate manufacturer's service guidance.

Store it with a plan. Bring it back with a test.

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Technical references and further reading

These primary references support the manufacturer-specific points in this guide. Confirm model and revision applicability before following technical instructions.

1. Victron Energy — Lithium Battery Smart: operation and over-discharge precautions
2. Victron Energy — SmartSolar installation and connection order
3. Battle Born Batteries — How to Winterize and Store LiFePO4 Batteries
4. Trojan Battery — Storage and maintenance
5. American Petroleum Institute — Diesel exhaust fluid storage and cold-weather handling
6. Keystone RV — Winterizing with compressed air
7. Truma — AquaGo winterization
8. Truma — Combi winterization
9. published RV generator operator manual (HDKCA/HDKCB example)
10. Honda — Generator fuel storage recommendations
11. Michelin — RV tire resources and inflation guidance
12. Michelin — Motorhome leveling blocks and RV tire resources
13. U.S. EPA — Mold, moisture and your home
14. CDC — Cleaning up after rodents, including vehicles